Image Credit: Guiseppe Silvestro
After twelve years running the popular Al Taglio pizzeria in Surry Hills, Enrico Sgarbossa found himself craving something deeper. Not just a new postcode, but a new pace.
“After a hard time mentally and physically I sold the pizzeria in 2020 and moved to another region in Adelaide to focus on nature and be closer to producers,” he says.
The result of the shift was ‘That’s Enrico,’ an intimate 20-seat pizzeria in Lobethal that spotlights the organic produce of the region alongside his longstanding ethos of sustainability and quality.
Every corner of the restaurant is considered and personal. Every detail intentional. The artwork is by local artist Emma, who redrew one of Enrico’s breads by hand.
“Inside it’s very cosy. It has custom-made tables from an 86-year-old, it was the last job that he did,” explains Enrico.
The pizza flour is crafted with the same level of precision.
“I am a flour technician, so I make the best flour for pizza. I teach pizzamakers how to make pizza,” he says. “Every flour has a purpose. The skillful pizza maker knows how to use any flour.”
Since 2014, Enrico has trained over 100 people across Australia and internationally.
“Basically every recipe you see behind the back of flour, we create them in our laboratory,” he explains.
So while That’s Enrico is technically a restaurant, it’s also a hub for training, a space for sharing, and a place that reflects Enrico’s philosophy of community and connection.
“Food is community, giving a space, a good time, that’s what food does.”
The centre of it all is the pizza. But not just any pizza. There are four different doughs on offer, all sourdough, and each created with purpose and precision.
There’s the ‘Classic,’ the ‘Thin and Crispy,’ the ‘Gluten-Free,’ and a South Australian first: the ‘Contemporary Double-Cook Dough.’
It’s a 24-hour crunchy sourdough base, “made with multigrain flour. Spelt, oat, barley. Cooked twice so that means it has a very light and crunchy bite, but very soft in the middle,” Enrico says, comparing it to a ciabatta loaf, only round.
The menu riffs on tradition with inventive charm. A lasagna pizza pairs a tomato base with fior di latte, house-made bolognese, béchamel and parmigiano. Calzones are filled with locally made ricotta and sauteed spinach, and Japanese mayo finds its match with double smoked ham and mixed mushroom cream. There’s even a raviolo pizza with spinach, ricotta, butter and sage as well as all the classics like Margherita and Marinara, but with an elevated touch.
“[The menu] is a little bit of a twist. I like to play around with different things,” he says. “Something different, unique, but still classic.”
Pair it with a wine from their curated biodynamic list and finish with their Tiramisu – served with homemade mascarpone – for the full Italian fare.
The concept is deeply rooted in sustainability. Enrico sources almost exclusively from local organic producers like Scarfo Organics in Lobethal, Marino Meats and La Vera Cheeses, among others.
“All the wine and veggies are organic and biodynamic. The concept is farm to table, everything is organic and sustainable, and most of the produce is from local farmers,” he elaborates.
He’s also the only pizza maker in South Australia using organic tomatoes from Italy. “Nobody has it from SA and the quality is unbelievable,” he admits.
Zero waste isn’t a marketing phrase here, it’s considered in everything, especially the dough. Enrico pioneered zero-waste bread, and has the Slow Food Snail of Approval.
“I am very aware of the wastage of the pizza dough. If people don’t use it at night they throw it in the bin, it’s such a waste,” he says.
“So I used scraps and twisted into bread. The bread will be sold for less to help the community, and used for bruschetta. I also make croutons and breadcrumbs with it. It’s skill based, so I teach people how to do it. The dough gets new purpose.”
His passion hasn’t gone unnoticed. In Sydney, his pizzeria was awarded one of the ten best pizzas in the world by Italian food and wine magazine, Gambero Rosso. Massimo Bottura, the world-renowned Italian chef, also tipped his hat to Enrico’s work.
And while accolades help, they aren’t the focus. What matters here is the people. The ingredients. The feeling.
“I want to do something for the community. I want to do something for the people,” Enrico says.
“That’s why I moved to the Hills. I wanted to stay in contact with nature, with producers, and give to people something different, something fresh and something made with love, with patience, and with skills.”
Charming, thoughful, and carries the heart of authentic Italian cooking and heritage against the stunning backdrop of the Adelaide Hills. If there’s a spot worth building a roadtrip around, it’s That’s Enrico, that’s for sure.
WHAT: That’s Enrico
WHEN:
Friday, 5-9pm
Saturday, 11:30am – 3pm, 5-9pm
Sunday, 11:30am – 3pm
WHERE: 53 Main St, Lobethal
For the website, click here.
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