The term “food fight” may conjure up images of little kids throwing food from brown bagged lunches at their enemies across the table, but this food fight involves adults warring over Australia’s much-loved brunch staple: halloumi.
The cheese variety can be found on nearly every Australian or Aussie fusion menu as a standalone side dish with lemon, or as a welcomed topping to smashed avocado on toast. Halloumi is so synonymous with Australian brunch that many may even believe the food originates from Australia. However, while there are now many Australian producers of the popular cheese, it originally comes from Cyprus, and recent policy changes regarding “the ‘halloumi’ ban” seek to make that clear.
The European Commission registered the term “halloumi” as a protected designation of origin (PDO) back in April, which means that countries in the European Union can’t refer to a cheese as “halloumi” unless it has been made in Cyprus and with a particular method.
“Only Χαλλούμι/Halloumi/Hellim produced on the island of Cyprus and according to the traditional recipe can now be marketed in the European Union under that name… bringing clear economic benefits to the island,” the European Commission says.
While the name rights currently only apply to the EU, Australia may soon be effected, resulting in a title change for “haloumi.”
“The move could have severe consequences for any future trading relationship between Australia and the EU, with the powerful trading bloc insisting that Australia adopt its Geographical Indications (GIs) system to protect products that the EU believes possess qualities or a reputation associated with certain regions,” Australian Dairy Farmers say.
Australian Dairy Industry Council Chair Terry Richardson disagrees with the EU’s decision and vehemently insists that “halloumi” belongs to everywhere, including Australia.
“Haloumi is a cheese that can be, and is, produced anywhere in the world… The origin of the cheese is irrelevant because the name is generic and associated not with the region in Cyprus, but with a certain taste, texture, and functionality,” he says.
“Geography doesn’t enter into it. Claiming there is a special knowledge that only producers in Cyprus possess is absurd and will lead to an unfair and anti-competitive outcome.”
While haloumi is not currently listed as a GI request under the pending Australia-EU free trade agreement (FTA), this latest development could propel its addition once the trade deal comes into effect, and Richardson opposes that possibility.
“The EU has already made a list of unreasonable demands to stop Australian cheese manufacturers using common cheese names; Now they have opened up the possibility of adding to that list once the agreement is finalised, and it is simply going too far,” he says.
“We need to prevent this FTA from allowing the EU to take over our cheese names.”
As of now, Australians and South Australians can still get “halloumi” at their local grocers and eateries, but, depending on who wins the so-called food fight, you may soon be buying a similar cheese with a different name instead.
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