Photo L to R: Paddy Gilhooly, Bernard Smart, Giles Cooke MW, Wayne Smart
Thistledown Wines has once again secured the prestigious 2025 Halliday Wine Companion Grenache of the Year award, marking the winery’s second triumph in this category. It also makes them the first winery to win the award twice. The award-winning grenache, named This Charming Man 2023 Old Vine Single Vineyard, carries a poignant significance as it was the last vintage overseen by Bernard Smart from his renowned Clarendon vineyard before he passed away.
This Charming Man achieved an impressive 98-point score along with a special value star, deemed ‘Grenache & Blends of the Year’ by the Halliday tasting panel. The wine’s distinctive qualities were highlighted by judge Marcus Ellis. He noted the blend’s complexity and potential, praising its array of flavours including sour cherry, pomegranate, and cranberry, enhanced by a ferrous minerality and hints of raspberry leaf tea.
Marcus Ellis writes: “Dry-grown bush vines fruit from the legendary Smart vineyard in Clarendon. Fermented wild with 20% whole bunches, matured in French hogsheads. This is early on this wine, with so much to unfurl, but the promise is striking. Sour cherry, pomegranate, cranberry, blood orange and a
ferrous rockiness, white pepper, raspberry leaf tea and warm terracotta cast across a framework of finely lacy but expansive tannins. Ample air, over two days, sees this soar, though only time will unlock all its secrets. If a case still needs to be made for those that doubt McLaren Vale grenache is inimitable, thrilling and unquestionably world class, then here is Exhibit A. Stunning.’
The Smart family’s journey in McLaren Vale is deeply entwined with the story of Grenache itself. Just as this grape variety has seen its fortunes rise and fall over the decades, so too has the Smart family’s vineyards. For years, their Grenache grapes were tragically undervalued, their potential unrecognized. Thankfully, the late Bernard Smart lived to see the glorious resurgence of Grenache, a renaissance that finally gave his dedication and passion the recognition it deserved. This legacy is beautifully embodied in Thistledown’s Charming Man label, a tribute to Bernard’s unwavering commitment to preserving this noble grape.
Established in 2010, Thistledown Wines has committed itself to not only preserving South Australia’s antique grenache vineyards but also promoting these globally. Known for their elegant and energetic character, Thistledown aims to precisely reflect the geographical essence of their vineyards into each bottle. This philosophy is clearly embodied in This Charming Man, which is distinguished by its early picking strategy and wild fermentation with 20% whole bunch inclusion.
Giles Cooke MW, winemaker and co-founder of Thistledown, speaks highly of the Smart vineyard’s unique profile, which he characterises by its aromatic delicacy and underlying tension. Cooke says, “Some vineyards have a very strong personality and our Smart vineyard Grenache is so easily identifiable right from the off.”
“The wine always shows some delicacy, both in colour and weight, as well as incredible aromatics but then there is this tension, this ferrous character. A touch of negroni, dried citrus, pomegranate, cherry and wild herbs. It’s beguiling, it draws you in and challenges you in the most delicious way” says Cooke.
The 2023 vintage, crucial in crafting the winning wine, was marked by cool temperatures and uneven rainfall during the ripening period. These conditions, while presenting challenges, served to highlight the inherent qualities of the vineyard. As Cooke pointed out, difficult seasons reveal the true mettle of both vineyards and winemakers, with exceptional sites shining through their tested resilience.
Unfortunately, the production of This Charming Man remains limited, with only 1,511 bottles made, increasing its desirability among collectors and enthusiasts.
In addition to the accolades for their exceptional grenache, Thistledown Wines also excels in producing shiraz and chardonnay. Proudly bearing a 5 red star rating from the Halliday Wine Companion, a Real Review Top Winery of Australia distinction, and certification from Sustainable Winegrowing Australia, Thistledown consistently garners praise from prominent global wine critics. This recognises their commitment to crafting precise, pure, and vibrant wines reflective of their terroir.
Through meticulous vineyard selection, innovative winemaking practices, and a dedication to sustainability, Thistledown Wines continues to stand out in the Australian wine industry.
For more on the South Australian winners of the Halliday Wine Companion Awards, click here.
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