After almost 15 years of feeding Adelaide from its leafy little corner of Tea Tree Gully, Topiary is preparing to close its doors, marking the end of an era for one of Adelaide’s best hidden gem eateries.
For those who have followed Topiary over the years, you’ll know it has never just been a restaurant. Tucked inside Newman’s Nursery, surrounded by gardens and greenery, it became known for its seasonal, produce-driven cooking, thoughtful approach to sustainability and a dining experience that felt connected to the land around it.
I had the chance to visit Topiary for lunch last Saturday, and there was something particularly poignant about sitting down for a meal knowing it wouldn’t be there forever.
We dined inside the intimate venue, tucked against the wall at a cosy table for two. We started with fresh, thick sourdough focaccia, which paired perfectly with the buffalo curd and vibrant green dill oil.
We followed that with potato gnocchi in a delicious, creamy cauliflower cheese sauce and pork belly with honey-roasted root vegetables and quandong.
For co-owner Kane, who opened Topiary with partner Adele in 2012 when they were just 26, the outpouring of support since announcing the closure has been both unexpected and incredibly moving.
“We’ve been overwhelmed by the support and stories that our guests have shared with us,” shared Kane. “We never imagined we would have had that much impact on so many people’s lives.”
After nearly 15 years, Topiary has become part of memories for countless Adelaide diners, from special celebrations and long lunches to the people who simply kept coming back.
“It’s been such a big part of our lives for so long, it will be sad to say goodbye to the people we spend so much time with,” Kane said. “But at the same time, there’s some excitement for the future in the air.”
When Kane and Adele first opened Topiary in 2012, they had no idea quite how far the restaurant would go.
“At 26 years of age, we were just excited to get in there and build a place that made us and the community happy.”
And in those early days, getting the word out looked very different.
“Instagram hadn’t really taken off yet, so getting the word out was challenging at first, which I think gave us time to figure out who we were and what made sense in the space,” he said.
Over the years, that identity became increasingly clear. Topiary developed a reputation for cooking that celebrated South Australian produce, seasonality and the natural world, with Kane and his team constantly looking for ways to make the most of what was available around them.
Some of the restaurant’s most memorable moments happened far beyond the dining room.
Kane remembers the team’s annual mushroom forage and campfire dinner in the forest, as well as the ambitious ‘12 Hour Menu’ event held as part of Tasting Australia.
For the event, everything was harvested, caught and collected from producers across the Fleurieu before being served within a 12-hour window.
There was also the simple but significant challenge of learning how to make really good bread from scratch.
“The learning process in general, as a team and with our guests, has been quite a beautiful journey,” shared Kane.
That spirit of learning and experimentation has also produced some of Topiary’s most memorable dishes.
“Our ‘Fallen Leaves’ dessert put us on the map many years ago, and the ‘Luck of the Seagull’ was the most fun dish by far.”
As spring rolls around for the restaurant’s final weeks, diners can also expect the return of a couple of old favourites, including ‘Lamb in the Weeds’ and the smoked mussel crumpet with mussel water mayo, fennel and marmalade.
For Kane, Topiary’s location at Newman’s Nursery was always about much more than its beautiful setting. The restaurant occupies a 140-year-old home, and that history became part of the inspiration behind its approach to food.
“Being in a 140-year-old home brought meaning to learning the art of churning butter, making cheese, preserving the season, and minimising waste, the way they would have all those years ago. The path that runs down the side of the creek was where our love for foraging was born, offering a vast range of edible plants available throughout the year.”
And while Topiary became a significant part of Adelaide’s food scene, it was also a family business in the truest sense.
Kane and Adele have raised their children alongside the restaurant, with their eldest growing up around the team and even sneaking the occasional meringue.
“It’s been a beautiful, social way for the girls to come into the world. Watching their parents do what they love every day. When we were younger, and the kids were younger, it was a lot of fun.”
But as the family and the business grew, so too did the demands.
The pair embraced the challenge of pivoting during COVID, supplying Tasting Menus for customers to enjoy at home, but Kane says the period ultimately took its toll.
“It’s taken a long time to catch back up in a lot of ways, so we’re very much looking forward to some balance with the next stage of life,” he said.
Before that next chapter begins, however, there are still a few more Topiary meals to enjoy. Saturday night dinners will run throughout September, giving customers the chance to return, revisit favourite dishes and say goodbye to the team.
“We’re still working through what the final weeks look like, but at this stage we will be bringing back some favourite menu items, running some specials for dinner service on Saturdays, and having as much conversation as we can with the people that have supported us for so many years.”
And if Kane could go back to the 26-year-old version of himself and Adele who first opened Topiary, his advice would be simple.
“Trust your instincts. Stop and enjoy the micro moments that make it all worth it. I think that’s it. It was the curveballs that made us who we are today.”
While Topiary’s chapter is coming to an end, it certainly doesn’t sound like Kane and Adele are finished with hospitality. The pair have already planted a lot of seeds for what comes next, although they’re planning to take some time to breathe first.
“We’re very much looking forward to a bit of a break to reset, recharge and find some new inspiration,” Kane said.
After that, Place Dining will become Kane’s focus, with the next iteration potentially taking a few different forms. There’s also the possibility of a small restaurant in the garden behind the couple’s home, or future dining experiences created with like-minded people and centred around a connection to the earth.
Adele, meanwhile, has her sights set on old buildings and architecture in 2027. And, Kane suspects, she won’t be staying too far from the kitchen either.
“No doubt she’ll jump in the kitchen with me when we hit the road for some special events across the country….or world.”
For now, though, Topiary still has a little more life left in it.
And after almost 15 years of growing, experimenting, feeding and creating memories in the Adelaide Hills, it feels fitting that its final chapter is less about an ending and more about saying thank you.
Topiary
Where: 1361 North East Road, Tea Tree Gully SA 5091 (Inside Newman’s Nursery)
When: Closing date to be confirmed
For more information, click here.
