Images: Giuseppe Silvestro
In Mexican communities, barro has carried deep cultural significance for generations. Translating to ‘clay’ in English, it was traditionally used across Mexico and wider Latin America by Indigenous communities to cook and serve food, from handmade plates to the comal used to heat tortillas.
That history is part of the soul behind Adelaide’s newest Mexican restaurant, Barro.
The brains behind the venue are acclaimed Mexican chef Alejandro Huerta and his wife, pastry chef and sommelier Galia Valadez.
The husband-and-wife duo arrived in Adelaide following careers spent in some of the world’s most celebrated kitchens.
Alejandro’s experience includes Pujol in Mexico City, Noma in Copenhagen and Alinea in Chicago, while Galia’s background in wine and pastry has helped shaped Barro’s defining features.
Together, they have been finalising the last details ahead of opening, and while there are some nerves, Alejandro said there’s a buzz of excitement in the air.
“I’ve been working in the kitchen, trying to make sure that we’re getting the food right,” Alejandro said.
“A bit nervous, but mostly excited and happy, and a bit of relief that it’s finally happening.”
While her husband has been busy on the food side of things, Galia’s focus is on the wine list inspired by regions including New South Wales and Victoria, while still showcasing a strong selection of South Australian producers.
The name Barro is also closely tied to Alejandro’s childhood and the time he spent cooking with his family in Mexico.
“My grandmother would always say that the best food was cooked in clay,” Alejandro said.
“She would say you shouldn’t use stainless steel or things like that, and that you should always cook in barro.
“That’s why we think it’s something that speaks to what Mexico is.”
Those memories have moulded the finished Rosina Street dining room, into what customers can see from today.
The low-lit and intimate restaurant avoids the familiar imagery often used inside Mexican-inspired venues. Instead, Alejandro and Galia have filled the space with smaller details drawn from their own lives, travels and memories.
Shelves near the entrance are lined with cookbooks and artisan clay pieces brought from Tequisquiapan, a town in Mexico known for its handmade barro pieces.
At the rear of the restaurant, a wall has been decorated in clay roof tiles, a nod to the homes found throughout smaller Mexican towns.
Although Alejandro can’t cook with clay this time round, the presenting plates have been carefully considered, with the couple working with Australian ceramicists and pottery producers, including Sam Gordon and Queensland-based artist Kim Wallace.
Barro’s menu draws on regional recipes, family memories and the flavours that shape everyday life across Mexico.
“I’m half Australian and half Mexican, so it’s about showcasing the beautiful ingredients of Australia and putting a bit of Mexican soul into them,” Alejandro said.
“The idea is to make Mexican food that is based on who we are, but it doesn’t necessarily have to be made in the same way it has been done forever or the way you’ll find it at every restaurant.”
The cocktail program has been developed with award-winning bartender Eduardo Conde, who is also one of Alejandro’s closest friends and was best man at the couple’s wedding.
The list explores traditional and lesser-known Mexican spirits, including mezcal, rum, bacanora and sotol, rather than relying solely on familiar tequila brands.
“We want people to try these things and get a taste of what Mexican culture means to us, so we can share that with them,” Alejandro said.
The couple wanted the restaurant to feel personal and welcoming, with even the music playlist being curated with the help of a friend in Mexico, featuring Mexican and wider Latin American artists, alongside music from across the world.
More than anything, Alejandro wants Barro to be somewhere diners can settle in, enjoy the music and stay as long as they like.
“We want this place to feel like you’re walking into our home.”
Barro
When: soft opening July 22
Where: 38 Rosina Street, Adelaide, 5000
For more info, click here.
